This weekend I checked out Le Fumoir, a lovely café/brunch spot/martini bar near the Louvre, and discovered a cozy, old-fashioned and non-touristy nook that's perfect for a pause when you've had enough roving of central Paris.
Le Fumoir turns its cheek to the overpriced and schmaltzy tourist traps in the area and invites diners and drinkers in with its warmly lit lounge area, complete with plush leather couches and newspapers for a leisurely coffee. In the back, grab a table under the grand Art Nouveau or in the library and have a martini and some quiet conversation.
Don't worry... although the cocktails here are usually around €10-€12, during Le Fumoir's happy hour all cocktails (including their specialty, The Dry Martini) are 7€. That still may be a lot to pay for a drink, but even for this Cheapskate, it's worth it considering the relaxed and chic atmosphere and central location (not to mention the strength of a truly good martini).
HAPPY HOUR: 6-8pm (7€ cocktails)
Open every day from 11-2am
6 Rue de l'Amiral de Coligny 75001 Paris
Métro: M1 to Louvre-Rivoli